Studio Underd0g, founded by Richard Benc in 2020, has disrupted the watch industry with its whimsical designs. The brand embraces humor and creativity, offering timepieces are both accessible and engaging. Their latest release, the Salm0n Monopusher Chronograph, continues this tradition by blending playful aesthetics with serious horology.
A Brief History of Studio Underd0g
Richard Benc launched Studio Underd0g with a mission to bring fun back into watchmaking. The inaugural 01SERIES featured compact chronographs powered by the Seagull ST-1901 movement. These watches, characterized by vibrant colors and unique themes, sold out rapidly. In 2022, the brand introduced the Field 02SERIES, a colorful take on classic field watches, powered by a Swiss-made Sellita movement.
The Evolution to the 03SERIES
The announcement of the 03SERIES marked a significant step for Studio Underd0g. Collaborating with high-end independent watchmaker H. Moser & Cie., they teased the Project Passion collection. This partnership resulted in a Swiss-powered monopusher chronograph and a perpetual calendar, showcasing the brand’s ambition to elevate its technical prowess.
Introducing the Salm0n Monopusher Chronograph
The Salm0n Monopusher Chronograph is the latest addition to the 03SERIES. It retains the familiar look of the 01SERIES but introduces several upgrades. The watch features a stainless steel case measuring 38.5mm in diameter, 13.6mm in thickness, and 44.5mm lug-to-lug. The compact dimensions ensure comfort on various wrist sizes. A double-domed sapphire crystal tops the case, providing clarity and scratch resistance. The watch is water-resistant up to 50 meters, adding practicality to its stylish design.
A Playful Twist on the Salmon Dial
Salmon dials have long been a hallmark of esteemed watch brands. Studio Underd0g’s interpretation takes this classic element and infuses it with humor. The dial emulates a salmon fillet, blending textures and colors to create a unique visual effect. The center features a grained texture with a greyish gradient, mimicking the shimmering skin of a fish. The lower portion showcases a sunray finish in true salmon color, housing a tachymeter scale and an oversized 30-minute chronograph counter.
The sub-dials vary in size and color, offset by the brand’s discreet logo and movement details. This design allows the central chronograph seconds hand to sweep across the dial uninterrupted. Super-LumiNova C3 coats the hands, ensuring legibility in low-light conditions.
Movement Upgrade: Embracing Swiss Precision
One of the most significant enhancements in the 03SERIES is the movement. Transitioning from the Chinese-made Seagull ST-1901, the Salm0n Monopusher Chronograph is powered by the Swiss-made Sellita SW510 M. This hand-wound, cam-operated monopusher chronograph movement offers a substantial 63-hour power reserve. Operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour, it ensures precise timekeeping.
The movement’s architecture is based on the renowned Valjoux 7750, known for its reliability and robustness. The large bridge on top receives a ruthenium coating, giving it an anthracite hue can be admired through the see-through caseback.
Quality Control and Craftsmanship
Studio Underd0g places a strong emphasis on quality. The Salm0n Monopusher Chronograph is assembled in Great Britain, reflecting the brand’s commitment to craftsmanship. To ensure each watch meets high standards, the company partnered with Horologium for independent quality control inspections. This process includes demagnetization, accuracy and rate review in three positions, and regulation if necessary.
Strap and Wearability
Complementing the watch is a 20mm Epsom calfskin leather strap crafted by The Strap Tailor. The strap features quick-release spring bars for easy changes and a stainless steel pin buckle. Its texture and color harmonize with the watch’s playful yet sophisticated aesthetic.
Availability and Pricing
The Salm0n Monopusher Chronograph was made available for pre-order on September 17, 2024. The pre-order window lasted nine hours, from 3 PM to 12 AM BST, exclusively through the brand’s website, underd0g.com. All orders placed during this window are guaranteed a watch. The first 400 units are scheduled for delivery in October 2024, with subsequent orders expected to ship from January 2025.
The watch is priced competitively at EUR 1,800, GBP 1,700, or USD 2,000. Considering the Swiss movement and unique design, it offers significant value for enthusiasts seeking something different.
The Significance of the Salm0n Monopusher Chronograph
The Salm0n Monopusher Chronograph represents more than just a new watch; it signifies Studio Underd0g’s growth and maturation. By incorporating a Swiss movement and collaborating with esteemed partners, the brand demonstrates its dedication to advancing horological craftsmanship without sacrificing its playful identity.
Conclusion
Studio Underd0g continues to challenge conventions in the watch industry. The Salm0n Monopusher Chronograph is a testament to their ability to blend humor with serious watchmaking. It offers a fresh perspective on traditional design elements while delivering technical improvements appeal to discerning collectors.
The watch stands out not only for its aesthetic but also for its mechanical advancements. By embracing a Swiss movement and ensuring rigorous quality control, Studio Underd0g positions itself as a brand values both innovation and reliability.
For enthusiasts seeking a timepiece defies norms and brings joy to the wrist, the Salm0n Monopusher Chronograph is a compelling choice. It embodies the spirit of a brand unafraid to swim against the current, much like the salmon inspired its design.
