The world of horology has always been one of precision, innovation, and pushing the boundaries of what is possible. This year, at the Geneva Watch Days, Konstantin Chaykin, the renowned Russian independent watchmaker, has made waves with his new prototype, the ThinKing.
At a stunning 1.65mm thickness, this watch takes the title of the thinnest mechanical watch and redefines what’s possible in the ultra-thin watch category.
The Rise of Ultra-Thin Watches
In the world of luxury watches, size often plays a crucial role. For decades, watchmakers have been obsessed with creating timepieces are functional, aesthetically pleasing, and mechanically impressive.
The trend towards ultra-thin watches has been growing over the past few years, with brands like Piaget, Richard Mille, and Bulgari leading the charge.
The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon, which boasts a thickness of 2mm, set the early benchmark for what could be achieved. Richard Mille then upped the ante with the RM UP-01 Ferrari at 1.75mm, and Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC took it a step further at 1.7mm.
Each of these timepieces has pushed the boundaries of engineering and watchmaking, but Konstantin Chaykin’s ThinKing, with its 1.65mm thickness, has now set a new standard.
An Overview of the ThinKing
Konstantin Chaykin’s ThinKing is a piece of engineering art combining design, innovation, and functionality. At 40mm in diameter and 1.65mm thick, the ThinKing is a marvel of modern watchmaking.
It features a case made of “special steel,” a term used by the brand hinting at a unique alloy chosen for its strength and lightweight properties. The watch’s unstrapped weight is a mere 13.3 grams, making it incredibly light on the wrist.
Design Elements: A Nod to the Wristmon Series
One of the standout features of the ThinKing is its design, which pays homage to Chaykin’s famous “Wristmon” series. Known for its whimsical, face-like designs, the Wristmon series includes watches like the iconic “Joker” feature dials resembling a face.
The ThinKing continues this tradition with a design incorporating two “eyes” for the hour and minute displays and a “smile” engraved on the case front. This adds a playful element to the watch and serves a functional purpose, reinforcing the case to handle the rigors of daily wear.
The Movement: K.23-0 Caliber
The heart of any watch is its movement, and the ThinKing does not disappoint. It features the K.23-0 caliber, a manually wound movement integrated directly into the case, a characteristic seen in many modern ultra-thin designs. The movement runs at a frequency of 2.5 Hz, offering a 32-hour power reserve.
Key innovations include a Swiss lever escapement, a single ultra-thin winding barrel, and a double balance system with a geared clutch. These elements are essential in achieving the watch’s thin profile without compromising performance.
Strengths of the ThinKing
1. Unprecedented Thinness
At 1.65mm, the ThinKing stands as the thinnest mechanical watch to date. This achievement places Konstantin Chaykin in the spotlight and sets a new benchmark for the industry. The ThinKing’s thinness is a testament to the brand’s commitment to innovation and its ability to push the boundaries of traditional watchmaking.
2. Ingenious Design and Engineering
The integration of the movement into the case is a significant feat of engineering. By reducing the number of layers and components, Chaykin has managed to achieve a level of thinness previously thought impossible. The use of “special steel” for the case and the incorporation of design elements from the Wristmon series give the ThinKing a unique identity sets it apart from other ultra-thin watches.
3. Practicality and Wearability
Despite its thinness, the ThinKing is designed to be worn. The introduction of the Case-PalanKing, a protective case serving as a winding mechanism, adds a layer of practicality to the watch. This case protects the ThinKing from damage and allows it to be worn in everyday situations without fear of breaking. Even with the protective case, the total thickness remains just 5.4mm, making it wearable and functional.
4. Innovation in Materials and Patents
The ThinKing’s development has resulted in three patents, covering its innovative winding barrel, the double balance wheel, and the innovative strap design.
The strap, made from alligator leather with elastic inserts and titanium supports, is engineered to distribute stress and protect the watch from the physical movements of the wearer. This focus on innovation extends beyond the movement to include the materials and overall construction of the watch.
Weaknesses and Challenges
1. Prototype Status
Currently, the ThinKing is still in the prototype phase, and there is no information on when or if it will enter production. As a prototype, it serves as a proof of concept rather than a commercially available product. This limits its impact to the realm of horological enthusiasts and collectors, rather than reaching a broader market.
2. Practicality Concerns
While the Case-PalanKing adds a layer of practicality, the ThinKing’s extreme thinness may still pose challenges for everyday wear. The watch’s delicate nature means it may not withstand the rigors of daily life as well as thicker, more robust watches. Wearers may need to exercise caution, which could limit the ThinKing’s appeal as an everyday timepiece.
3. Lack of Water Resistance
One notable omission in the ThinKing’s specifications is water resistance. Ultra-thin watches often face challenges in sealing against moisture and dust, and the ThinKing is no exception. The lack of water resistance may be a concern for potential buyers, as it limits the watch’s usability in various environments.
4. No Chronometer Certification
While the ThinKing’s movement is undoubtedly a marvel of engineering, it does not carry a chronometer certification. This certification, which guarantees the precision of a watch’s movement, is often seen as a mark of quality and reliability. The absence of this certification may deter some purists who prioritize accuracy.
The Competitive Landscape
The ThinKing enters a competitive landscape where several luxury brands have already staked their claim. Piaget, Richard Mille, and Bulgari have each pushed the boundaries of thinness, and the ThinKing now joins the ranks of these prestigious names. However, the ThinKing’s unique design, coupled with its status as the thinnest mechanical watch, gives it a competitive edge.
Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon
Piaget’s Altiplano, at 2mm, was one of the first to showcase the potential of ultra-thin watchmaking. Its elegant design and precision engineering set the standard for others to follow. However, the ThinKing’s 1.65mm thickness undercuts the Altiplano, making it a more impressive feat in terms of sheer thinness.
Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari
The RM UP-01, developed in partnership with Ferrari, measures 1.75mm and is renowned for its robust construction and unique design. Richard Mille is known for creating watches are both technically advanced and visually striking. The ThinKing, with its playful Wristmon-inspired design, offers a different aesthetic may appeal to those who prefer a more whimsical approach.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC
Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC, at 1.7mm, combines thinness with a minimalist design. It has received praise for its balance of style and functionality. The ThinKing, while slightly thinner, offers a distinctive design language sets it apart from Bulgari’s more conventional aesthetic.
Quick Specs: Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing Prototype 2
- Brand: Konstantin Chaykin
- Model: ThinKing Prototype 2
- Diameter: 40mm
- Thickness: 1.65mm
- Weight: 13.3g (without strap)
- Case Material: Special Steel
- Dial Color: Silver
- Water Resistance: Not listed
- Strap: Black alligator with elastic inserts and titanium supports
Movement Details
- Caliber: K.23-0
- Functions: Hours, minutes
- Power Reserve: 32 hours
- Winding: Manual, via key
- Frequency: 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
- Jewels: 51
- Chronometer Certified: No
- Special Features: Integrated movement and case design
Pricing & Availability
- Price: Currently not for sale; a production model is still in development.
Conclusion: A Bold Step for Konstantin Chaykin
The Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing is a testament to the brand’s dedication to innovation and its willingness to take risks. By entering the ultra-thin watch race with a prototype challenging existing benchmarks, Konstantin Chaykin has positioned itself as a formidable player in the luxury watch market.
While the ThinKing is still a prototype, its existence signals a shift in the approach to watchmaking. It encourages other brands to continue exploring the limits of what is possible, inspiring a new wave of innovation. For watch enthusiasts and collectors, the ThinKing represents a glimpse into the future of horology, where artistry and engineering combine to create timepieces are functional and works of art.
As the watch industry continues to evolve, the ThinKing stands as a reminder sometimes, it’s the smallest and thinnest of innovations make the biggest impact. Whether it will see commercial production remains to be seen, but one thing is certain: Konstantin Chaykin has captured the imagination of the horological world, and the ThinKing will be a reference point in the ultra-thin watch narrative for years to come.
